Evrensel olarak sevilmiyor ve şarapları çoğumuzun ötesinde, ama Stephen Brook, yorulamaz Lalou Bize-Leroy'un esiri.
Lalou Bize-Leroy, 1980'lerin ortalarında ailesinin de sahibi olduğu Domaine de la Romanée-Conti'nin şaraplarını takdim etmek için Londra'ya geldiğinden pek farklı görünmüyor. Hafif, elfin bir figürü var, parlak mavi-gri gözleri ve artık saf sarışından ziyade gümüş-sarı saçlı, kıyafetleri şık ama abartısız. Bu kıvrak, ince figürü adanmış bir kaya tırmanıcısı olarak düşünmek tamamen makul. Kişi onun yaşında bunu düşünmek için duraklayana kadar, onu biraz dinlenmek isteyebilir. Ama biraz değil.
Bize-Leroy, Burgonya terörü yaşıyor ve soluyor. 1988'e kadar ana kaygısı, Meursault mahzenlerinde bir milyon şişe kaliteli Burgundy şişesi bulunduran, halen işletmekte olduğu aile négociant şirketi Maison Leroy'du. Büyük büyükbabası onu 1868'de kurdu, ancak 1919'dan itibaren eski şarap stoklarını oluşturmaya başlayan babasıydı. 'Hala satılık o vintage ürünlerden bazı şişelerimiz var.' O zamandan beri her harika vintage üründen bahsetmeye gerek yok. 'Babamın asıl mesleği Domaine de la Romanée-Conti'yi işletmekti, bu yüzden satın aldığı şarapları satmaya hiç zaman ayıramadı.' Bize-Leroy 1955'te ona katıldı.
Böyle bir deneyim ve bakış açısı, onu Burgundy'nin hiyerarşisi içinde zorlu bir konuma yerleştirir. 'Yetiştiricilerle sözleşmem yok ve her yıl sıfırdan başlıyorum. Bir şarabı seversem, satın alırım. Değilse, istemiyorum. ”Kullanılacak bu kadar büyük rezerv varken, kendisini her yıl satın alma zorunluluğu hissetmiyordu.
Maison Leroy şarapları son derece pahalıdır, ancak onlarla gurur duymaktadır. Yelpazeyi yılda bir kez tadıyor ve neyi serbest bırakacağına, neyi saklayacağına karar veriyor. Genellikle piyasaya sürülenler, özellikle ABD ve Japonya'da, koleksiyoncular tarafından hızla koparılan olgunlaşmış eski bağlardır. Eşi Marcel Bize'nin birkaç yıl önce ölümüne kadar koştuğu St-Romain'deki 4 hektarlık Domaine d’Auvenay'in de sahibi. Şimdi kendi başına çalıştırıyor. Mütevazı adresine rağmen, Auvenay'in portföyünde çok sayıda büyük para var, ancak miktarlar çok küçük ve tahsis sırası uzun.
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Ilginç Haberler
