Terroir, şarap dünyasında herkesin kucakladığı o uğultulu sözlerden biridir, ama bu gerçekten ne anlama geliyor? Ve üreticilerin iddia ettiği şaraplar üzerinde gerçekten bir etkisi var mı? Rupert Joy öğrenmek için derine iniyor
Terroir, şarap dünyasında herkesin kucakladığı o uğultulu sözlerden biridir, ama bu gerçekten ne anlama geliyor? Ve üreticilerin iddia ettiği şaraplar üzerinde gerçekten bir etkisi var mı? Rupert Joy öğrenmek için derine iniyor
yeni şans
Kuzey Rhône'deki Condrieu'nun güneyinde, Château-Grillet'in küçük bir unvanı yatıyor. Doğal bir amfi tiyatronun dik yamaçlarındaki 3,4 hektarlık üzüm bağları, çok daha büyük komşusu Condrieu ile aynı üzüm çeşidinden ve topraklardan çok az miktarda şarap üretiyor. Ancak 1936'dan beri ayrı bir klima olarak kabul edilmektedir ve çok daha fazlasını satmaktadır. Sahibi Isabelle Baratin-Canet, granit topraklarından ve güneye bakan görünümünden yapılan şarabın orijinalliğinin yüzyıllardır kabul edildiğini vurguluyor. Ancak bazı komşuları, Château-Grillet ve Condrieu teröristleri arasında böyle bir fark olup olmadığını sorguluyor.
Belirli toprak parçalarının özellikle harika şaraplar ürettiği fikri yeni değil. 1677'de Bordeaux'yu ziyaret eden filozof John Locke, Château Haut-Brion'un onu komşularından ayıran 'topraktaki özelliğine' dikkat çekti. Abbot Arnoux tarafından 1728'de Londra'da yayınlanan bir kitap, Burgundy'deki Montrachet'in büyüklüğünü Côte d'Or'daki belirli bir toprak şeridine bağladı.
Modern bir fenomen olan şey, fikri tanımlamak için 'terör' kelimesinin kullanılmasıdır. Orijinal Fransızca çağrışımları aşağılayıcıydı. 20. yüzyılın ortalarına kadar, bir vin terroité, en iyi ihtimalle bir tür yokel cazibesi ve en kötüsü de kusurları olan rustik, topraksı bir şarap anlamına geliyordu. Goût de terroir (teröri tadı) içeren bir şarap, olgunlaşmamış veya çürümüş üzümlerin tadı olan, kalitesiz yapılmış bir şaraptı. Terörün daha olumlu bir özellik olarak fikri, 1930'larda AC sisteminin doğuşuna kadar ortaya çıkmadı.
Herkesin kendi terör tanımı vardır. Belki de en basit olanı, onu 'bir yerleşme' olarak tanımlayan Amerikalı şarap yazarı Matt Kramer'inki. INAO (Fransa'nın AC sisteminden sorumlu organ) dahil Fransız tanımlarının çoğu dört temel unsuru içerir: bir yerin fiziksel özellikleri (özellikle toprak ve maruz kalma), iklimi, kullanılan üzüm çeşidi ve insanın oynadığı rol .
Chicago polisi 3. sezon 19. bölüm
Şarapların üzümlerinin yetiştirildiği yerden belirli özellikler aldığı ve bu özelliklerin ifade edilmesinde insanın rol oynadığı şeklindeki temel önermeye çok az insan itiraz edebilir. Ancak bugünlerde hemen hemen her şarap üreticisinin teröre saygı duyan şaraplar ürettiğini iddia ettiği ve 'müdahaleci olmayan' bir yaklaşım benimsediğini iddia ettiği göz önüne alındığında, tüketicinin terörizmin pratikte ne anlama geldiğini merak etmek için her türlü nedeni vardır.
ses 16. sezon 1. bölüm
Terörün kökleri
Belki de kelime 'arazi' ye benzediği için, terörü esas olarak toprakla ilişkilendirme eğilimindeyiz. Bu da, şarapların doğrudan içinde yetiştirildikleri topraktan bir tat aldığı algısını teşvik edebilir.
Klasik bir örnek, dünyanın en tanınmış şaraplarından biri olan Chablis'tir. Her yerde bulunan bir üzüm çeşidinden yapılmasına rağmen, Chardonnay'ın Chablis ifadesi diğer bölgelerden farklıdır. En tanınmış şaraplar, tarih öncesi istiridye kabuklarından oluşan yumuşak Kimmeridgian kireçli marndan gelir.
Üreticiler ve şarap yazarları genellikle şarabın karakteristik çakmaktaşı-iyot tadı ile bölgenin jeolojisi arasında bir bağlantı kurarlar. Bernard Billaud-Simon, 'Chablis'teki iyotlu notaları, toprağının bileşimiyle değilse başka nasıl açıklayabilirsin?' Diye sorar. 'Bu tadı başka yerlerde yetişen Chardonnaylerde bulamazsınız.'
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Ilginç Haberler
