Bordeaux 2010 Lafite Rothschild
O pong nedir? LINDA MURPHY, Brettanomyces'in çok kötü niyetli, yanlış anlaşılan, ancak bazı çevrelerde takdir edilen dünyasını inceliyor.
Şarap kariyerimin ilk yılında, dünyanın dört bir yanından en iyi şişelerin gösterisine şarap döktüm. Stanttan bir mola verdiğimde, diğer tekliflerin çoğunu tatmak için odanın etrafında dolaştım.
Masama döndüğümde, yanımdaki şarap üreticisi 'Seni gerçekten etkileyen bir şey oldu mu?' Diye sordu, 'Château de Beaucastel'den 1989 Châteauneuf-du-Pape' diye yanıtladım. Kıkırdadı: 'Brett'i seviyor olmalısın. O sırada Brett'in - Brettanomyces'in (breh-tan-uh-MYE-gördüğü) - ne olduğunu bilmesem de, Beaucastel'in topraksı, kösele, tütsülenmiş domuz pastırması ve baharat karakterine bayılıyordum. , meyve etli ve sert yapılıdır.
Daha sonra, tüketilmesi zararlı olmayan, ancak şarabın aromalarına ve tatlarına hem iyi hem de kötü şeyler yapabilen doğal olarak oluşan bir maya olan Brett'in, tartışmada net bir kazanan olmadan şarap üreticileri arasında sıcak bir konu olacağını öğrenecektim.
Vintners buna 'B kelimesi' diyor ve en iyi ihtimalle, Brettanomyces şaraba, pek çok kişinin karmaşıklık ve derinlik katan olumlu nitelikler olduğuna inandığı şeyleri verebilir: eldivenli deri, tütsülenmiş et, domuz pastırması yağı, tütün, yer mantarı, karanfil ve diğer tuzlu toprak aromaları baharat.
Yine de B kötüleştiğinde, şaraba, ahır, gübre, sıva, ıslak köpek, terli at battaniyesi, fare pisliği ve antiseptik kokusu verebilir. İkincisinden korkan dünyadaki birçok şarap üreticisi, Brett kontaminasyonunu önlemek için ellerinden gelen her şeyi yapıyor.
Diğerleri, bu fazladan ilgi için biraz onu teşvik eder, ancak yabani mayanın çeşitli karakter ve meyveliğe baskın olmaması için çok çalışması gerekir. Diğerleri, diyelim ki temizlik tanrısallığın yanındaysa, bazı şarap üreticileri kiliseye gitmiyor. Tatsız şişelemeleri için terörizm olmadığını iddia edenler, sadece sağlıksız uygulamalar için bahaneler uyduruyorlar.
Dost yada düşman?
Brettanomyces'in birçok türü ve teorisi vardır ve tam bir tartışma mikrobiyoloji tezi gerektirir. En basit haliyle, Brett ile özdeşleşmiş iki şarap değiştirici bileşik vardır: 4-etil guaiacol (4-ör.), Birçokları tarafından domuz pastırması ve baharata katkıda bulunur ve 4-etil fenol 4-ep), negatif sıvaları ile, ıslak köpek ve tıbbi özellikleri.
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Ilginç Haberler
